The Wave

“Both at the surface and below, it seems, everything is in constant flux. Energy flows and surges and occasionally bellows. Water itself is a most complex substance, eight hundred times denser than air, prone to confounding behavior. Wind is invisible but can wreak havoc wherever it goes.  When it comes to making a wave, so many factors come into play that it is hard to know where any one thing ends and another begins….”

Susan Casey, The Wave, 2010